Corey Chow and Hak Soo Kim’s Niche

The Wines

López de Heredia, “Vińa Gravonia,” Rioja Blanco 2011

López de Heredia has been making wine for over 125 years.  Still family-owned and operated, the youngest generation does its best to keep the founder’s original ideals intact.  As staunch traditionalists, the family refuses to change the style of their wines in order to appeal to modern tastes or reviewer demands.  As evidence to this commitment, they use only their own estate grown organic grapes, natural yeasts, and no filtration, chaptalization, chemicals or machinery.  All the work is done by hand on the estate, including the crafting of homemade barrels.  While most modern Spanish winemakers have found ways to be more efficient in getting their wines out of their cellars and onto the market, López Heredia seems to do everything it can to keep its wine at home longer-sometimes decades longer.  100% old-vine estate Viura was fermented in old oak vats and matured in old oak for four years.  Fined with egg whites but left unfiltered.  Oxidative toasty and nutty flavors will create a wonderful harmony with chilled corn soup.  Umami coming from the extended bottle aging will provide a firm foundation on the palate to accompany the oceanic tone of Peekytoe crab.  My idea is to start the meal with wine of gentle acidity to ease into the course.  

Domaine Pattes Loup, “Vent d’Ange,” Chablis 2018

Thomas Pico started Domaine Pattes Loup in 2004, with just 2.5ha that he inherited from his dear grandfather whom he was very close to.  The domaine takes its name after a vineyard planted by Thomas in the lieu-dit of Pattes-Loup (meaning wolf’s paw).  Motivated to take a qualitative leap in a new direction, and against the wishes of his father, he immediately began a program of strict yield control and a conversion to organic viticulture, which is a rarity in the inhospitable vine growing region of Chablis, finally reaching certification in 2009.Progressively, Thomas has taken over more and more of his father’s vines, and today, the estate comprises 15 ha of vineyards, all carefully and organically farmed.  Another distinguishing factor is his commitment to hand-harvesting, followed by hand sorting of any imperfect berries on a vibrating triage table at the winery.  He ferments all wines using indigenous yeasts and ages for a minimum of 18 months, two thirds in stainless steel, one third in 7hl cement eggs for “Vent d’Ange.”  This particular cuvée comes from three parcels (2ha) around Courgis: la Ménarde, les Malantes and Pattes Loup.  The vine are 40 years old.  Located on the left bank of the Serein River, this wine will show more restrained fruit characteristics highlighting the salinity of fossilized seashells and unique signature of grey salt, perfect for light fluke sashimi.

Habit Wine Company, Cabernet Franc, “Coquelicot Vineyard,” Santa Ynez Valley 2018

Certified Organic, 80% whole cluster fermentation with 20% crush, fermented in a tall steel open top fermenter, foot stomped, free run gravity fed back over the top for a very long slow fermentation over three weeks.  Blessed with the Californian sun, Habit’s Cabernet Franc boasts purity of red and blue fruits without overwhelming tannin and overpowering tobacco flavors that I personally dislike in Cabernet Franc coming from other regions.  Light-hearted with vibrant acidity, this bottle has just the right amount of turned soil and bell pepper note to accompany cilantro, mint, basil and tomatoes in Chef’s Steak Salad.   

Champagne Laherte Frères, Brut Rosé, Pinot Meunier, “Ultradition” NV

100% Pinot Meunier from the Côteaux sud d’Epernay, Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs where clay topsoil and chalky subsoil dominate.  Rosé was created with 60% white pressed Meunier, 30% maceration, 10% red Meunier.  Alcoholic fermentation occurs in vats, founders and barrels, and malolactic fermentation was made partially.  Often times, I personally like to finish the meal with champagne which cleanses your palate, instead of sweet wine.  Framed by a chalky mousse and firm, focused acidity, lightly fragrance of crushed flower, mint, herbs and ripe pureed red berry notes, along with accents of gingersnap biscuit and kumquat, will accompany the fireworks of choco flakes, Tri-Star strawberries.  At the same time, the unique flavor of rye bread in Pinot Meunier will complement banana and condensed milk ice cream.