André Hueston Mack’s
Niche Niche
The Wines…
First: Caraciolli Cellars Brut Cuvee 2013
A Santa Lucia Highlands sparkling wine, the Brut Cuvee is composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir and offers a smooth yeasty nose. Our sparkling wines are always a méthode champenoise vintage product. All grapes are hand harvested into small totes, disallowing any premature crush to occur prior to press. The cuvée begins fermentation in 316 stainless steel tanks with 40% of the wines finishing the fermentation in neutral French Oak Barrels. The remaining 60% of the cuvée age in the same barrels, however the fermentation finished prior in stainless tanks. The total time on oak is approximately 2 months.
The consistency of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Highlands makes it possible to deliver these distinct bubbles dependably year after year. Translucent yellow. Persistent and vigorous pinpoint bubbles; generous mousse. Rich red and citrus fruits highlighting juicy honey crisp apple and sugared lemon wedge, pineapple and kumquat fruit notes backed by hints of integrated yeastiness throughout. Very bright and fruit forward, salivating crisp finish.
Second: Morgen Long ‘Durant Vineyard Chardonnay’ 2018
Hailing from the Dundee Hills of Willamette Valley, and sustainably farmed by Paul Durant;
What is almost certain to be the defining facet of 2018 is the lack of rainfall they received in the Willamette Valley. After a “normal” bud break in mid-April, flowering was protracted, likely due to dry conditions. Consistently warm and dry summer days were followed by cool and dry nights. As hydric stress tempered berry and cluster size, accumulation of sugar began advancing quicker than flavor development. As cooler daytime temperatures arrived in late August, physiological ripeness began to catch back up and acidity remained high and firm. Scattered rain showers in the middle of the second week of September were followed by a stretch of beautiful fall days and nights. The rain quenched the parched soils, though cool temperatures prevented spread of much disease pressure. Fermentations were very healthy and only a few barrels were slowed by early malolactic. Aromas of flint, chalk, lime, lemongrass, mint, almond meal, graham, and elegant wood spice. Bright acidity, vivid flavors, silken texture, faceted, limber yet elegantly powerful with a delicate finish.
Third: Jolie Laide Barsotti Vineyard Gamay Noir 2019
Jolie-Laide is a one-man operation based in a Sebastopol winery where winemaker Scott Schultz makes only 500 cases of wine a year under his own label. The name Jolie-Laide translates loosely to “Pretty-Ugly”, a French term of endearment to describe something that is unconventionally beautiful. Scott’s passion for wine was ignited when moved to Napa from Chicago in 2007. Having had extensive experience in the restaurant business, he switched gears upon his arrival in California to lead the wine program at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon. Working a harvest and as a cellar master are a few of Scott’s many achievements. He now works with Wind Gap, Ryme Cellars, and formerly Arnot-Roberts.
Grown at high elevation in the beautiful red granitic soils of the Sierra Foothills. Picked in two separate passes, one early and one a bit later, makes for a wine a bit riper and fleshed out than in years past.
The clusters are left whole and started by carbonic maceration, which lends its distinctive high tone appeal, then eventually crushed by foot and finished whole cluster for skin contact and extraction. Pressed to neutral barrique for a short 6 month elevage and bottled young to preserve delicate aromatics. Light, fresh and utterly charming. Wild strawberry and summer herbs with cranberry tartness
Fourth: Maison Noire ‘Oregogne’ Pinot Noir 2014
Founded by sommelier André Hueston Mack in 2007, Maison Noir's wines are unique and distinctive garage wines, initially created for some of the New York's best restaurants for whom Mack was a sommelier, and now available nationwide. Despite having a successful career with Citicorp Investment Services, André decided to leave his "desk job" to pursue his passion for wine. While working as a sommelier in San Antonio, Mack discovered the joys of introducing guests to the little known vineyards that first attracted him to the business and "the instant gratification of a guest's reaction."
While still in Texas, Mack was awarded the prestigious title of Best Young Sommelier in America by the highly-regarded Chaine des Rotisseurs. This recognition propelled him into the opportunity to work as a sommelier at Thomas Keller's world-renowned The French Laundry in Yountville, California. Mack went on to accept the position of Head Sommelier at Keller's equally famed Per Se in New York City, where he managed a 1800 selection award-winning wine list and consulted with Chef Keller on menu and pairing development regularly. Winemaking has always been a dream of his and came to fruition when he set up shop under the moniker of Maison Noir Wines.
Blended from two single vineyards in the Eola-Amity Hills A.V.A. at different elevations, De-stemmed, 5-7 Day cold soak and 28-day extended maceration. 12 months maturation in 25 new French oak, followed by 6 months in bottle. Beautiful floral aromas immediately draw you in: rose petal and violet, with lively aromas of raspberry, cherry and cedar, as well as hints of baking spice, sandalwood and dried cherry. There is an underlying note of cola and blueberry as the wine opens up more with air. This wine treats your palate to chewy, red fruit highlighted by forest floor and pepper flavors.