NICHE NICHE IN THE LOIRE

The Menu…

1st Course: Duck Rillettes, Caramelized Shallot Jam & Toast

Wine: Thomas Batardière, Les Cocus 2019

Thomas, originally from Angers, studied Anthropology and cinema in university before briefly working as a filmmaker. After then working at a caviste in tours that specialized in organic and natural wines, Thomas earned his sommelier degree in 2008. As part of the training for his degree he did a viticulture internship at Chateau Yvonne. Thomas was then brought on the next year as Yvonne’s only full-time employee and he continued to work under Mathieu for 3 years while earning his degree in viticulture in Beaune. At Yvonne, Thomas helped in every role from winemaking to viticulture where he learned about organic and biodynamic farming. In 2011 Thomas started his own domaine after purchasing two hectares of Chenin in the town of Rablay sur Layon in Anjou. His first step was to immediately convert his vineyards to biodynamic farming, and in 2015 his vineyards were fully certified by Demeter.

Grape: Chenin Blanc

Region: Anjou

This wines comes from a single parcel of Chenin, planted in 1958 in Faye d’Anjou, the neighboring village of Rablay. The Clos des Cocus terroir is the summit of a hillside (southwest) very exposed to winds. The soil is 20-40 cm of clay on schist. On the surface there is volcanic rock, some spilites and rhyolites.The juice is vinified in the same way as l’Esprit Libre, but in 500L barrels. These barrels are used, 2-3 years old (no new barrels). Naturally occurring fermentation (primary and malo).

2nd Course: Beet Salad, Citrus, Mache, Vinaigrette and Candied Cashews

Wine: Boulay, Comtesse Sancerre 2019

This family domaine of 9ha located in Chavignol can trace its history back to 1380. The land records for that year mention a Jean Boulay as owner of vineyards in Chavignol. At the time, the Clos de Beaujeu in Chavignol was already known for the quality of its white wine which is remarkable since Sancerre was known as a red wine area until after phylloxera invaded it. In the 14th century the Clos de Beaujeu supplied the Cathedral of Bourges with white wine.

Sancerre Comtesse - From 50-75 year old vines located in the sweet spot of the Mont Dam­nés vineyard (bottom of the slope, near Clos La Neore of Vatan), this is often the most powerful wine from Boulay's lineup. Soil here is Kimmeridgian Clay or "terre blanche" (similar to the soils of Chablis) Vintage 2005 was the inaugural release.

Grape: Sauvignon Blanc

Region: Sancerre

The wine is fermented with ambient yeast in 300 liter barrels, then aged on the lees in a combination of barrel (300L, no new wood) and tank then bottled unfiltered

3rd Course: Roasted trout, Haricots Verts, Whipped Lentils, Almonds, Lemon Caper Brown Butter

Wine: Benoit Courault, La Coulée 2018

Benoit Courault is a young and established vigneron in Faye d’Anjou, a little village south of Angers along the Layon river. Not a son of a winemaker, early on, Ben decided to study wine. He went to Beaune. From 2003 until 2006, he worked with the famous vigneron Eric Pfifferling from Domaine L’Anglore in Tavel. Back to his native Loire, he found 5ha of vineyards and started his estate in 2006. Ben’s practices are simple and traditional, organic farming, use of the horse, natural vinification, very little use of sulfites, no fining and no filtration.

Grapes: 80% Grolleau, 15% Pineau d’Aunis, 5% Chenin

Region: Anjou

Made from 40+ year-old vines growing on the Coteau des Mailles in Faye d’Anjou, the silty clay soil over altered schists give a remarkable structure to the wine. The grapes are hand-harvested, co-vinified whole-cluster in semi-carbonic maceration with some pigeage at the end of the 12 days maceration. Press and free-run are blended, then the wine is aged in used Burgundy barrels. The wine is bottled unfined.

4th Course: Espresso Pot de Creme

Wine: Couly Dutheil, Baronnie Madeleine Chinon 2016

Established in 1921 by Baptiste Dutheil, then developed by his daughter, Madeleine Dutheil, and her husband René Couly, today Couly-Dutheil remains a family Domaine, owned by the third and fourth generation. Arnaud Couly is the fourth generation and current winemaker, having taken over from his father, Jacques Couly, in 2003. Couly Dutheil owns a total of 90 hectares of vines, 98% of which are Cabernet Franc. They sell 80% of their production within France.

Grape: Cabernet Franc

Region: Chinon

La Baronnie Madeleine is bottled only in top-quality vintages, only after a blind tasting confirms its success. If the blind tasting does not show the wine to be superior, the wine is incorporated into the lesser cuvées and not bottled separately as Baronnie Madeleine. The cuvée, named for the winemaker's grandmother, represents the style of the "Feminine Ideal:" richness and elegance. Fermentation is temperature Controlled in stainless steel tanks and includes an exclusively designed punching-and-crushing system. Fermentation lasts 2 weeks, plus a 3 or 4 week maceration period for maximum concentration of fruit and character. Regular and traditional racking proceeded by egg white fining. The wine is bottled three months after fining and goes on the market 2 to 3 years after harvest.