CHAMPAGNE IS FOR LOVERS

Valentine’s Week

The Wines…

Barbichon Blanc de Noirs

Champagne Robert Barbichon represents four generations worth of work in the Côte des Bar. Robert Barbichon is now in the very capable hands of Robert’s two sons, Thomas & Maxime, who after learning viticulture and winemaking from their father took over duties at the family estate. The Barbichons hold a total of 9 hectares of vines across the Côte des Bar, most of which lie in Gyé-sur-Seine along with plots in the neighboring Courteron as well as just up the Seine river in Celles-sur-Ource. A large portion of their vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir, about six and half hectares, the rest is planted to Chardonnay, about 1 hectare, Pinot Meunier, just shy of a hectares worth and about half a hectare of Pinot Blanc. The overall average age of their vineyards are about 30 years.

Region: Gyé-sur-Seine (Aube)

Grapes: Pinot Noir and very little Pinot Meunier

The Wine: Fermented in Stainless steel then aged in steel & oak vats for about 8 months. The wine then spend 36 months on the lees in bottle under crown cap.

Marc Hébrart, ‘Le Leon’ Côteaux Champenois 2015

This is Hébrart’s first release of Coteaux Champenois, vinified in barrel without malolactic and aged for 18 months on its fine lees. It’s all from the Dizy vineyard of Le Léon, although it doesn’t state this on the label, and it’s deliciously forward and inviting, marked by a refined texture and an elegant build. While it doesn’t have the depth or richness of Hébrart’s champagnes, it feels harmonious and expressive of place, and it will be intriguing to compare this with the champagnes made from the same site.

Le Léon is a historic vineyard that lies on the border of Aÿ Grand Cru and Dizy 1er Cru below the road. The vineyard is named for Pope Leo the Magnificent, who was the patron of DaVinci, Rafaelle, and Michael Angelo. It is said that he only took his wine from Aÿ from this specific site.

Region: Aÿ

Grapes: 100% Chardonnay

The Wine: Aged 18 mos. on oak with no Malo.

Moussé Fils, Champagne Rosé Effusion Perpetuelle de Blanc et de Rouge

A grower since 1750, Champagne Moussé sits in the village of Cuisles, in a valley perpendicular to the Vallée de la Marne. This side valley has a unique soil in Champagne: a schist subsoil under clay. While Pinot Meunier often struggles to be taken seriously in Champagne, at Moussé, Pinot Meunier is celebrated. 80% of the vines planted are Meunier, with the balance planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. This agency is the first member of Club Trésors de Champagne to make a Spécial Club wine of 100% Pinot Meunier and the first Club member to produce a Rosé de Saignée SpécialClub. In the vineyards, Cedric Moussé adheres to a ‘lutte raisonée’ approach. He practices organic viticulture, using herbal infusions that act as ‘vitamins’ for the vines, cover crops, zero pesticides, and minimal doses of heavy metals like copper.

Region: Vallée de la marne

Grapes: 92% Meunier, 8% Pinot Noir

The Wine: Grapes are fermented in Stainless Steel then aged in Stainless steel and Oak. The Cuvee is a blend of 88% wine from a Solera dating back to 2003 and 12% Meunier vinified as a still red wine. Still red wine comes from one plot of Pinot Meunier grapes and is aged in oak cask for 24 months before being blended into the white. The final blend is aged 16 months sur latte.

Champagne R. Geoffroy, Ratafia de Champagne

Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, who has 14 hectares in the Vallée de la Marne, is the fifth generation in his family to grow grapes in the region. While his family has always made a little wine, they began to emphasize Champagne production in the bad years after World War II, when they were unable to sell their grapes to the big houses. In the 1970’s Mr. Geoffroy’s father decided to keep all the grapes and turn them into Champagne. Geoffroy’s vines average about 20 years of age but the oldest are from 1926.

Region: Vallée de la Marne

Grapes: Pinot Noir and Meunier (from the press of the Rosé de Saignée)

The Wine: Ratafia is a liqueur made from the leftover grape juice of each harvest, such as from the third or fourth press, and added to a brandy (usually distilled from champagne grapes) with herbs and other selected fruit juices.

Jean-Baptiste takes great pride in his Ratafia and it is always a highlight. His Fine de Champagne is distilled in an artisanal still to 60% ABV and then aged for 8 months in oak barrels before being blended with pinot noir and meunier.