Carlton McCoy + Kwame Onwuachi’s Niche

 
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The Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Tradition 2018

SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG, a Cistercian monastic estate, is one of the oldest wineries in the Austrian Danube area with a documented history that dates back to 1171. All the vineyards are located on slopes and terraces around the valley of the river Kamp near the town of Langenlois and the village of Gobelsburg. Schloss Gobelsburg specialises in Grüner Veltliner and Riesling and produces authentic and noble wines from different single vineyard, village and regional appellations. The winery is member of the association 'Österreichische Traditionsweingüter', which is working on a vineyard classification project for the Danube area.

The grapes were pressed softly with only a few twists (as with a tree press), filled without degumming into a large Manhartsberg oak cask (25 hectoliters), and then spontaneously fermented without cooling. Following fermentation, the wine was racked three times until it was almost completely pure. The wine was bottled after maturing in the cask for 18 months.

Soft and bright on the palate, off-dry with floral overtones and flavors of stone fruits and sweet herbs.

Michel Lefarge Bourgogne Rouge 2017

Michel Lafarge (b. 1928) and his son Frédéric make use of their combined experience
to produce some of the greatest wines in Volnay. There is nothing modern in their winemaking, though the meticulous care of their biodynamically farmed vineyards puts the domaine at the forefront of viticultural practices. When they are working on a patch of vines they are usually accompanied by their hens who eat up any lurking pests. The grapes are de-stemmed, vinified traditionally and very little new oak is used in the cellar. In 2014, they purchased vineyards in the Beaujolais which are farmed using the same biodynamic practices as employed in the Côte de Beaune.

Frédéric was keen to highlight the solidarity shown between vignerons at the end of April, as they mobilised to put in place measures to prevent a repeat of the frosts of 2016. Burning dampened straw bales at strategic locations, they succeeded in creating cloud cover which saved the vast majority of the vineyards. He also stressed the importance of “fractional harvesting” – waiting until each parcel is fully ripe before picking – and feels that the domaine’s biodynamic practices allow the grapes to achieve even ripening and balance, a real boon in early vintages such as 2017. For those with long memories, 90-year-old Michel compares 2017 to 1947 and 1964. 

The nose delivers a fine constellation of cherries, fraises du bois, a lovely base of soil tones, raw cocoa and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is fullish, focused and soil-driven, with very pretty fruit elements, tangy acids and just a touch of backend tannin perking up the long and promising finish.

Domaine Faury St. Joseph 2016

Along the steep, narrow valley that traces the northern Rhône, the appellations of Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu and Saint-Joseph take their place among the great wines of France, and Domaine Faury is one of the region’s most artisanal producers. When Philippe Faury took over the domaine in 1979, the family was selling wine, peaches and cherries, and the bulk of their clientele was local. Over the years, Philippe increased their holdings to over 11 hectares and began to sell internationally. He shared his savoir faire with his son, Lionel. Since 2006, Lionel has taken over the reins, though father and son still work side by side. Every method they use encourages the grape towards greatness with the ultimate respect for its fragility.

Seventeenth-century monks in the region wrote about the wine from these hills as being “fresh and delicate,” and, indeed, the Faurys have always accentuated Syrah’s potential for making elegant wines of real finesse. Their Saint Joseph rouge in particular stands out as a thing of purity and grace. Vinifications are gentle, with about one third of the fruit going through whole-cluster fermentation for textural and aromatic lift. Élevage takes place in foudres and demi-muids to preserve the wine’s inherent vitality and avoid any flavors not born from grape or terroir, and the wine undergoes neither fining nor filtration. 
         Suggestions of violets, black olive, blackberry, and peppery spices soar from the glass, and the wine graces the palate with a featherweight touch—that’s the Faury signature. From its floral nose to the bright, supple finish, this Syrah is a perfect example of traditionally styled Saint Joseph.

Heitz Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Founded in 1961, Heitz Cellar is a Napa Valley legend that has helped shape the history of Napa Valley winemaking. Pioneering vintner Joe Heitz ushered in Napa’s modern era with his iconic, globally-celebrated wines, including Napa Valley’s first vineyard-designated Cabernet Sauvignon, the renowned Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard. In 2018, the winery entered an exciting new chapter as the Heitz family passed this rich legacy into the hands of the Lawrence family, whose deep roots in agriculture and commitment to the same core values of fine winemaking made it a perfect match. Made with an unwavering commitment to quality from organically farmed, 100% Napa Valley fruit, Heitz celebrates its agrarian roots and commitment to the stewardship of Napa Valley.

The 2014 Napa Valley Cabernet strikes you visually with its brilliant bright purple and ruby hues. On the nose, notes of black cherry, blackberries, ripe raspberry, and tart plum are complemented by savory herbal notes and a burt sugar/vanilla lift from oak aging. Its bright and inviting aroma matched by smooth tannins and a refreshing, yet lingering finish, compels you to go back for another sip. The 2014 season was yet another excellent growing year in the Napa Valley. Despite the California drought, rain thankfully arrived in February and March to give the vines a well-deserved drink of water right at the start of the growing season. 8 months in neutral oak tanks, 2 years in 50% new and 50% used French Limousin oak barrels, followed by 18 mo. cellared in bottle. Fish Friendly Farming, certified organic by CCOF.

 

The Menu

 
Seared Shrimp and Watermelon Salad with Citrus and Watermelon Nuoc Cham

Seared Shrimp and Watermelon Salad with Citrus and Watermelon Nuoc Cham

Spiced Cauliflower with Avocado Mousse, Sofrito Aioli and Mint Mojo

Spiced Cauliflower with Avocado Mousse, Sofrito Aioli and Mint Mojo

Summer Squash and Crab Curry

Summer Squash and Crab Curry

Picante Chocolate Mousse with White Nectarine, and Popped Sorghum

Picante Chocolate Mousse with White Nectarine, and Popped Sorghum

ADD ONS:

COOKIES $10

CAVIAR $45

KRUG (375ml) $125

This week benefitting the The Roots Fund

The fund was created to empower underrepresented minorities in the wine industry by providing resources and financial support through educational scholarships, wine education, mentorship, and job placement. The Roots Fund is committed to investing in the Black & Indigenous wine community to provide opportunities to those seeking a career/education in all aspects of wine.

THE HOSTS

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Carlton McCoy

Growing up in southeast Washington, DC, CarltonMcCoy’s upbringing was an unlikely springboard for his meteoric rise in the wine industry. Named a Master Sommelier in 2013 at just 28 years old, Carlton was one of the youngest people and the second African American to earn this prestigious title.

Motivated to build on his interest in the culinary arts, in high school Carlton enrolled in a class sponsored by the Careers Through Culinary Arts Program, or C-CAP. In 2002, he won a C-CAP citywide cooking contest and earned a full scholarship to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. At the CIA, something new stood out for him: “The wine class with Steven Kolpan was a revelation to me,” he explains. “It opened my eyes to a completely new world. I went to all the tutoring sessions to learn as much as I could about wine.”

After graduation in 2006, Carlton honed his skills in revered institutions including Thomas Keller’s Per Se, Marcus Samuelsson’s Aquavit, Tom Colicchio’s Craft Steak in New York and Eric Zeibold’s CityZen at The Mandarin Oriental in Washington, DC. It was at CityZen that he got serious about wine and began studying for the Court of Master Sommeliers certifications, guided by Andy Myers MS. “He’s the person in this industry who changed my life,” Carlton states. “He was the first person to take me under his wing and tell me that I may have a future in this.”

In 2011, Carlton joined the team at The Little Nell in Aspen, CO, inspired by the hotel’s award- winning wine program and reputation at a training ground for Master Sommeliers. After earning the MS title in 2013, he was promoted to Wine Director, overseeing a staff of 150 andThe Little Nell’s acclaimed 20,000-bottle wine cellar.

Carlton became President and CEO of Heitz Cellar in December 2018. To Carlton, Heitz Cellar represents a very particular style of Napa wines: ones that speak to an earlier era in California winemaking. His vision will highlight the winery’s consistent focus on remaining true to its elegant, pure style. “There has to be reverence when it comes to these older brands that create the greatest wines in the country,” he states. “It is fortunate that the Heitz family believed in that style and didn’t change it over the years. It makes the wines the unique experience that they are.”

As a Master Sommelier, Carlton is well versed in the fine wines of the world and is also keenly attuned to recognizing the icons closer to home. “As Americans, we have to look at wines like Heitz as national treasures,” he says. “We go all over the world looking for other wines whencwe have this incredible legacy right here at home. It’s a great honor to be steward of such an iconic, historical brand.”

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Kwame Onwuachi

Young Kwame Onwuachi cooked in his mother’s catering kitchen in the Bronx, peeling shrimp and stirring roux for gumbo. When he was 12, his mother sent him to live with his grandfather for two years in Nigeria. Living without electricity and modern conveniences, Onwuachi learned to be creative and appreciate the effort that goes into preparing a meal, including butchering an animal without being wasteful. After graduating high school, he moved to Louisiana, where he waited tables and washed dishes until he could try his hand in the kitchen. At 20 he returned to New York and sold candy on the subway to help fund his catering business. He then enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America and, soon after, dove into the world of fine dining at Eleven Madison Park and Per Se.

In 2016, after competing on “Top Chef,” Onwuachi opened modern American fine dining The Shaw Bijou in Washington, D.C. By 2017, he’d moved on to open Kith/Kin in the InterContinental Hotel. The atmosphere is fine dining and the food is Afro-Caribbean, exploring the influences of his mother’s Creole and Jamaican roots and his grandfather’s Nigerian heritage. Onwuachi has been named to “30 under 30” lists by both Zagat and Forbes, and in 2018 he won a StarChefs Rising Star award. At the 2019 James Beard Awards, Onwuachi took home the medal for “Rising Star Chef of the Year.” His recently released memoir, Notes from a Young Black Chef, is already slated to hit the silver screen.